the walk, part II (the monster mob sequel)

We took the first train from Moneglia to Corneglia, the third and middle town of the Cinque Terre, our plan being to walk from there to the fourth and fifth towns (Manarola and Riomaggiore, respectively) and then take the ferry back from Riomaggiore to Monterosso (the first town, see yesterday), and then the train back to Moneglia. It was a very smart decision (though we can’t really take credit, we just were lucky). This being Sunday of the holiday weekend, there were ga-zillions of people on the trail. Mostly they were walking in the opposite direction (as they were taking the usual route, from Riomaggiore, and we were going toward it), so we were spared, mostly, their suffering, of being in a slooooow moving crowd. Though it was difficult at points, going against the human tide.

Corneglia is the only town of the cinque terre that is not at sea level, but some 90 meters above. There was a set of stairs from the train station to the town, 365 steps, arrayed in some thirty switchbacks. We took the shuttle up and explored the little town; the shops there were more clever and artistic than in the other towns, and stopped in the local focaccia store. We walked down and proceeded to walk the 2 km trail to Manarola (PHOTO above), an easy, level path, high up but along the coast. Outside Manarola there were steep steep staircases down the rocks to the sea, where the brave were sunbathing and the even more brave were swimming. We ventured down one spiral path to put our feet into the water (very cold, but very clear and deeply blue), so we can say that we have been in the Mediterranean Sea. (PHOTO below) In Manarola all the houses seem to be painted in shades of orange and pink. The local church was having a bake-sale in the square. Fresh lemonade for 50 cents.

From Manarola to Riomaggiore one walks the famous “via dell’amore” (1 km), or lover’s lane, which was somewhat lacking in romance, as it was mobbed with people (including those pushing strollers, etc.) and at one section it goes through a former military fortress (with portals for cannons etc.). My companion dubbed it lover’s leap. Anyway, we finally got to Riomaggiore, the fifth and last, most south-easterly of the cinque terre. One pases through a long tunnel to get from one end of town to the other; the walls of the tunnel are tiled in mosaics. Mob scene to get on the ferry back to Monterosso, though the ferry ride was fabulous with great (re)(sea)views of all the villages… We were reminded at the ferry landing that Italians do not queue up on any kind of orderly fashion but bundle and push to get where they need to go, though it’s never nasty. There was the mob scene to end all mob scenes at the train station. We had taken a quick gelato break—chocolate and hazelnut, “duovo gusti” (two scoops) on a cone—so at least we had some sugar in our system. Years of experience in NYC subway etiquette proved invaluable, as we actually got on the train (sadly, many were left on the platform). The first ten minutes of travel were, shall we say, a challenge for the senses.

In Europe the people walk and hike much more than in the U.S. Nonetheless we may classify the hikers into three major categories:

The serious hiker: mountain shoes, pants that transform into shorts (bottom pant-leg zips off) and with lots of pockets; mesh tee shirt, hat, collapsible walking stick (one in each hand). Typically German or Swiss. Subcategory: fast hikers whose purpose is to get to their destination as quickly as possible, never mind the scenery.
The sensible hiker: sneakers, hat, sunscreen, water bottle.
The clueless hiker: crocs, clogs, flip-flops; pushing a perambulator or carrying a pocket dog; talking on the cell phone. Subcategory: the disco hiker, in high heels, tight clothes, big sunglasses.

Final evaluation: the first hike we took, from Monterosso to Venazza, was the most spectacular, notwithstanding the difficulty of execution. Today we had the satisfaction of seeing all the other villages, as well as seeing all five from the vantage point of the water, and amidst the sea of humanity.

Cucina tipica:
Focaccia formaggio (with melted cheese)
Focaccia rosmario (self explanatory)
Farinata (made with chick-pea flour)
Polpo e patate (octopus and potato salad)
Arancia rosso (blood orange)
Cappon magro (tasty but can't explain it--see link, left, on Ligurian cuisine)
Torta di verdura (vegetable pie, chopped veggie, cheese and rice)
Torta di riso (same made with rice, like a rice pudding pie)